

Ninety-nine kilometers to go on the trail, Ninety-nine kilometers to go, eat some berries and chat with someone, it’s ninety-eight kilometers to go on the trail…..Ninety-eight kilometers to go on the trail, Ninety-eight kilometers to go…. You get the picture.

Jay is not a fan of this song. Hey, Harris siblings, I understand you sang this quite a bit as children in the station wagon. Is that true? Jay might not like my song, however he is a huge fan of the berries each day on the trail and the people we are meeting.
It was a pretty exciting moment today, Friday, September 20th, when we reached this marker. I can finally begin singing my song.
Jay would rather make up cadences such as, “I don’t know but I’ve been told…When God made Kelly, He broke the mold.. Sound off 1,2, sound off, 3, 4, break it on down 1,2,3,4, 1, 2, 34. I don’t know that it’s been said…Jay would rather be in bed…Sound off 1,2, sound off 3,4, break it on down 1,2,3,4, 1, 2, 34.” I’ve threatened to go walk with the Roseville ladies if he continues these cadences. His cadence does sound better using the “Jesus loves me” tune.
Every morning Jay begins our walk with singing two songs that have become just a part of our day. The first is one for the Okie in us, “Oh, What a beautiful morning”. The other is, “Zip-a-dee-doo-dah”. Those songs just put a smile on your face, don’t they?
A couple of our grandchildren, I won’t name, says to me quite often, “Grandma Jelly, not every thing has a song”. I happen to think it does.

This is a picture of Jay when I gave him the news I hadn’t calculated the kilometers correctly. I forgot about the walking days in between our stays in Santiago. We have an additional 116 kilometers, Oopsy! And, Yay! We’ll crank those out in four days. So, here’s the math: 778 kilometers from St Jean Pied-de-Port to Santiago, which is the original count. Now most are saying 790 kilometers, so we’re going with that number. The picture below is after walking 27 kilometers. So, who really knows.

Then 116 kilometers from Santiago to Muxia via pFinisterre . A total of 900 kilometers which equals 558 miles.
After the initial shock was over, I said, “Ultreia!” Which means “Let’s go further”. Jay did not give the normal response, “Et Suseia”, which means “Let’s go higher!”
An interesting pre-history of the Camino is it seems the ‘way’ might have attracted pilgrims even earlier than the 8th century, as a route that followed the Milky Way all the way to Fisterra (Finis Terrae). Finisterre was believed to be the end of the world, and a magical place where the living could get closest to the land of the dead, in other words, to the ‘other world’. So, four days, 116 more kilometers to get closer to heaven, maybe!?
Here’s the count as of this posting: 700 kilometers walked. This past week marks our sixth month of this year’s travel. And, Thursday, the 19th, marked our one month walking. Where does the time go?
Let’s move on to some different surprises. Spain knows how to celebrate. We have entered towns numerous times to watch local celebrations, and a time or two becoming a part of the celebrations, such as walking in the parades.






One morning we decided to get up before sunrise. We had 31 kilometers that day to accomplish. The celebration at the house next door to our self-proclaimed “3-star” hotel had Spanish karaoke going most of the night, so we were awake. Three blocks into our day’s journey, at 6:30 a.m., we found the big party still continuing. (In our “other life, back in the day”, I don’t think we could have ever kept up with all these Spaniards)


One guy tried to hand Jay a drink as we were walking through the crowd. Jay said that has been the most dangerous part of our Camino, so far.
Two women from Melbourne, Australia became very near and dear to our hearts very quickly, Rita and Sandra. We met the second day walking. We stayed in Akerreta and began chatting during dinner, then again at breakfast. They walked through the 6:30 a.m. party just before we did. Knowing we were just behind them, they said they almost turned around to wait at the corner for us. They wanted Jay for protection.

We sure miss these two faces, smiles, and laughs along the way. Rita developed extreme blisters soon into their trip, however she trudged on each day. Sandra’s laugh was great. We had already arrived at our place one day when suddenly I could hear that laugh above us. I came out of our room, climbed the stairs, and there they were. I knew that laugh. We just grabbed each other for a great big hug. In Burgos, they took a train to a village closer to Santiago and walked in on the 10th of September. We missed them. They would have been fun to walk with through the mesetas.

The day we felt like the grim reaper was coming for us, we entered this small town with a bar on the first corner. We decided to stop for a bit to get a cold agua con gas (sparkling water), eat some chips for the salt, and rest for a moment. Just as we stepped onto the curb of the bar a parade of farm equipment arrived. Kids were riding in the buckets of frontloaders. Everyone, ages 2 to 82 dressed up. The first stop on the parade, you guessed it….the bar we stop at. It became crowded quickly.





The women with the blue hair could speak English. She told Jay the town does this every year. It’s kind of a community bar crawl. They go to one establishment, then another. They were all so kind and fun.
Another type of celebration is a wedding. We were privileged to watch a bride and groom with their photographers one Saturday.


Whether it’s a siesta or a fiesta; 99 or 215 kilometers; making up songs or cadences, meeting or saying good-bye to people along the way; this has been an experience I hope we never forget. And I hope you all don’t get tired of us talking about it when we get home.
What song or experience sticks in your head these days? It seems like no matter how our day is going mine is: “Every breath you take, every move you make, every step you take, I’ll be watching you. Oh can’t you see, you belong to me, every single day,….every step you take, I’ll be watching you.”
I don’t think Police was thinking about pilgrims on the Camino when Sting sang that, but it’s one for the pilgrim’s playlist.
I suppose I’ll be singing that one for an extra 116 kilometers.

Blessings and Buen Camino. Jay and Kelly