Why A Shell When We Haven’t Seen A Coastline?

Who knew my fifteen year dream and Jay’s passion for spearing lionfish has a similarity – a shell. Shells in the ocean and shells guiding us along our Camino.

Another similarity is when diving, good dive buddies will “plan the dive and then dive the plan”. On the Camino we have plans where we are staying, so we walk that plan. Some days when there are more kilometers than average, we think we’ll stop more often, however the plans go out the window when we get on a roll.

Remember Flat Mark and Flat Vicki? They’re on the Camino with us. Although I don’t think their feet are feeling like ours since they are traveling in a little Joey pouch.

This guy in the next picture helped paint the yellow arrows along the trail decades ago. His name is Marcelino Lobato. He has walked the Camino fifty times. The first one was in 1976. He was one of only six to receive a Compostela (certificate of completion) that year.

The Camino has a language all its own. Here’s a few terms used on the Camino.

Albergue -(pronounced Al-bear-gay) this is a pilgrims place to sleep. It’s usually a hostel. Since we are gliking (is that a term?) we are staying in private rooms with a private bath. Some look almost like hostels when you walk in. Some are self-proclaimed 3-star.

And then there are the real 3-star places with amazing views such as this.

Bars – When Dia Utterback first used the term “bar”, while sharing her experience, that we would get our pilgrims credentials stamped there, we would eat tapas/pintxos there and if need be, call a taxi from there. I was thinking, we’re not going to be hanging out in bars everyday. We’re walking 778 kilometers. Here’s what we’ve learned – bars are different than what we think in the United States. Kids come to eat there and the kids are sometimes sharing their parents wine. Many of the bars are family run with kids and grandparents helping. We eat many meals there. You drink coffee there in the mornings and afternoons. They are a Spanish café. They are great!

Pilgrims Credentials – This is our cards we carry with us throughout our pilgrimage getting them stamped and dated a few times a day when we stop by the bars, hotels/hostels, or cathedrals.

You can see our “fig, water, and love stamp from Felicia’s daughter in the top right hand corner and the “Marcelino Lobato” stamp at the bottom of the same page.

Coffee – coffee in Spain has a language different than Starbuck language. No one would ever go without their coffee here. Jay tries almost every morning to get a decaf. Every day they just stare at him, except one day they had it. Rejoicing!

Siesta – everything, except the bars close for 2-4 hours everyday. However, even in the bars the kitchens are closed during those hours. Stores open around 9 until 2ish, then open back at 5ish until 8ish. The in between hours are siesta time.

Dinner, if you’re lucky is 7:00pm. Most places do not open until 8:00 and many times 8:30; hence why you eat in the bars if you want to eat earlier than that. We have had dinner with some wonderful people.

Our first night we had a pilgrims dinner with several other pilgrims. One of the couples at our table were from Canada. Their names John (pronounced with a French soft “J”) and his wife Carol. John is 79 years old. He just got his first tattoo, the Camino yellow arrow on the inside of his forearm. He was pretty proud of it. (Hmmm, maybe Jay and I can get a shell?) We continued to run into them occasionally the first eight days, however we had to say goodbye to them in Logrono. Carol was having difficulties with a knee and decided to go home.

We have met so many wonderful people already. I hope we’re able to share each of their stories in the coming blogs.

Back to the title – So why the shell?

I’ve read a few reasons, so I’ll share the two that are cited the most. First one has to do with St James, the apostle and brother to John. The two were fishermen when Jesus called them to be two of his disciples. James traveled to Iberia which is the Northwest part of Spain (Galicia) to preach the gospel. Sadly on his way back to Jerusalem, he was beheaded by King Herod Agrippa for blasphemy. James body was brought back by boat to be laid to rest. As the boat began coming to shore, a knight on a horse went over the cliff and into the ocean. It is said St James intervened, saved the knight and his horse. When they came out of the water they were covered in shells. Hmmm…

Second one: The shell on the Camino represents the many ways to Santiago De Compestela. The flat side (line) represents Santiago. The ridges in the shell represents the paths to Santiago. And the pilgrims use the scalloped shell to drink their wine from it.

Or, when you come to the wine fountain on the trail (yeah really, a free wine fountain) and you can’t get your shell untied, just hold your head under the spout. That’s what most of the pilgrims do now.

I’m so glad I had my vino tinto colored shirt on that day.

The pilgrims have found many roads to walk to Santiago and pay tribute to St James, but it reminds me our journey in life has one way and that is the way, the truth, and the life – Jesus. As I look at all the types of trails we’ve walked so far and see the many ways to Santiago de Compostela, I’m reminded how many routes I’ve tried during my lifetime and know there is really only one. How about you?

Please enjoy a few of the different trails during the 407 kilometers we’ve walked so far.

When you know your destination, find the joy in the journey. Blessings and Buen Camino.